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When I first heard about the existence of Angel Island I was on a cruise to investigating the ghosts and haunting's of Alcatraz Prison. After I was done with one of the most eeriest notorious prisons in the country I begin delving into other islands nearby that also may have some dark history. It did not take long to figure out that Angel Island had history dating back to many centuries ago and that some of the first European settlers were actually from Spain when they docked there Galleons in Ayala Cove. But what many folks do not know is that Angel Island is home to one of the most in tact civil war forts in the country but also was the Ellis Island of the west. It had during both World Wars a major military base stationed on the island all within a couple miles from San Francisco.  In my opinion the islands found in the bay seem to contain not only dark history but the ghosts that haunt them.

The first inhabitants were the Miwok the island provided safety for the tribe but also a place to hunt, gather and fish. Over the years shell middens have been discovered or in simple terms burial mounds. Its hard to know how many exist on the island it is overgrown with foliage, hilly and much larger then it looks. What the mound told archeologist is that the tribe lived here at least 500 years ago and they mainly harvested shellfish but also fished for Salmon since it was very abundant in the bay many years ago. The mound contained bones, tools, shells and other pieces of the past. A large fishing village once surrounded the shorelines of this island even wildlife ran free throughout the island. When I was hiking near the eastern end of the island my son and I seen two deer running through the brush. I can imagine that living on this island hundreds of years ago offered the Miwok Tribe plenty of food, fresh water and even security. Sadly when the first Europeans had arrived they depleted everything thus the tribes were forced to migrate elsewhere.

In 1775 it was the Spanish that arrived in the bay they would come to dock on this very island. It was Commander Lieutenant Juan Manuel De Ayala that survived the baby area. In the process he also called the island Isla De Los Angeles in case some of you were not aware of how its name had derived. So the San Carlos ships did dock and its men stayed on the island awhile. I am not sure if any Miwok tribes at the time were residing on the island but if they did can you imagine the fright the natives had? Think about it your kids are running around on the beach playing, mom is crushing up herbs maybe smoking fish and the men are all out fishing when all of sudden a massive ship anchors in the cove as men began pouring onto the island. Most of the Miwoks had no idea that Europe let alone any other men besides their own native tribal members even existed so for the tribes this was a life changing experience. After the discovery the island was eventually succeeded on over to Mexico where for a short time it was a Mexican Cattle Rancho or rather in simple terms a farm. This eventually led to the island hosting a defensive outpost, military prison and base. It also was a quarantine and immigrant station for those arriving at the golden gate to begin their new lives and become Americans. 


In 1863 with the threats mounting in the Bay area from Confederate Sympathizers and Naval forest the federal government established Camp Reynolds on the western half of the island.  As a matter in fact artillery batteries were built near the camp at Point Knox, Point Blunt and Point Stuart. For nearly 82 years this military outpost was a vital source of protection centralized to the bay area. The camp was named after Brigadier General John F. Reynolds of the Army of the Potomac who was killed on the first day in the battle of Gettysburg of July 1863. In the early 1900's people referred to the camp as West Garrison on the island and eventually when Fort McDowell was built they used this camp for its beds so that the soldiers had a place to rest their heads at night. Trust me Camp Reynolds did not see much action but it resided between the Alcatraz and Fort Point Fortresses thus it was in a strategic location just in case there were any imminent threats. 

At one time nearly 300 troops may have stationed here along with officers who lived with their families on site. The commanding officers at Camp Reynolds were former civil war generals. The company band often gave concerts on the weekends and ice cream was made from the islands dairy. Sometimes the officers and their wives would dress nicely then take a boat on over to San Francisco to see the Opera. Unfortunately, Camp Reynolds became dilapidated buildings were made of wood some were beginning to experience weathering caused by the elements. With that being said around the turn of the century Fort McDowell was built on the eastern end of the island known as East Garrison. No less West Garrison would be used to house staff NCOs up until 1946 when the US Army called it quits shutting down anything militarily relevant on Angel Island.

When the Civil War was over Camp Reynolds became an infantry camp or rather serving as a depot for new recruits and as a staging area for troops serving in campaigns against the Sioux, Modoc, Apache and many other Indian Tribes. I mean lets face it the wild west was not born until the Mid 1800's and it was all due to the fact that it was merely to dangerous of territory. Having a well established outpost on the island allowed the federal government to begin slowly taking territory which later such regions would in turn lead to become states. In 1886 new bun batteries on the SW side of the island were built to face the Golden Gate. Then the batteries Ledyard, Wallance and Drew were in operation on the island till about 1904 but then by 1909 were dismantled. If you hike around the island you can still see some remnants of said batteries such as concrete foundations where they once were implemented at guarding the bay area.

Today some of the finest Civil War structured remain standing within Camp Reynolds and are excellent examples of 1860's military architecture. The Officers Quarters at the top of the Parade Ground are definitely worth checking out if you visit here as they were built previously on Yerba Buena Island in 1867 for the U.S. Army Engineers then were transported via Barge to the island in early 1882. Also when you visit the camp the Bake House that was built on its present site in 1862 is worth a gander which at the time served as the living quarters for NCO staff and a schoolteacher. When I took the ferry to Angel Island I did pass right by Camp Reynolds unfortunately the island is so large that I was not able to visit Camp Reynolds on our first project. However, I was able to see on my first exploration Ayala Cove, Quarantine Station, Immigrant Station and most of Fort McDowell. Angel Island is much larger then you could ever imagine I believe you could explore the island many times and still probably would never see all it has to offer its guest. 

The first quarantine station was opened at Ayala Cove in 1891 and some folks called it Hospital Cove. It was where ships would dock from foreign ports so they could be fumigated and immigrants suspected of carrying any disease could be kept in Isolation. In 1892 the US Navy decommissionsed a Algoma class wooden screw sloop called the USS Omaha and used its b oilers to supply superheated steam for the fumigation process. Her masts covered a large structure on her deck to house the diseased some sailors some were immigrants coming to America. Eventually forty buildings would be built which including a 400 bed detention barracks, disinfection plant, laboratories and even living quarters for staff. The Quarantine Station today is a visitors center meanwhile many old creepy large homes grace the hillside above it in the forest where staff bunked down for the night and worked at the station in the cove during the day.

As a matter in fact the first ship that quarantined its pass angers was a Chinese steamship in 1891 when smallpox was present on board. The passengers had gotten off the steamship then were examined by a doctor bathed in carbolic soap and dressed in overalls. The clothing they wore and luggage were sent through these large metal cylinders where everything could be disinfected with hot steam under intense pressure. The passengers then had to reside in their barracks for at least a fourteen day period. The barracks then were fumigated with sulfur dioxide and flushed with salt water in the mornings. The ships also underwent fumigation with the use of live steam, cyanide and burning sulfur. Different methods were used over time most proved fairly effective at negating any diseases brought here from other countries. But over time such Quarantine stations became obsolete as medical advanced were made this would diminish the use of length quarantines unnecessary. The problem was such a station was expensive to operate due to its isolation thus it was abandoned in 1946 when the US Public Health Service which succeeded the old U.S. Marine Health Service were moved to San Francisco.

With that being said the station was declared surplus therefore all functions after 1946 were handled in the city of San Fran not Angel Island. In 1957 Angel Island or rather Hospital Cove became part of a state park. All but four of the Quarantine Station's fort plus buildings were razed and removed. The former Bachelors Officer's Quarters are now today's visitor center while on the hill above it are several large homes which were employee residences which today are used by State Park Staff. The huge metal disinfecting cylinders have also been removed and most of the stations grounds were simply leveled. You will not see much left of the Quarantine Stations existence but I was able to photograph for our viewers what does remain and with a good imagination you can certainly look at some of the old vintage photographs taken in Hospital Cove and put together what life was like when ships entered port here. The Quarantine Station was enormous it had 40 buildings, staff housing, laboratories and barracks that could hold up to 400 sick patients. 

America was based on being a land where people came here to prosper make a life for themselves. Were a country based on its immigrants I know this because my family came over on the boat to Ellis Island less then a century ago then again your family probably did also. I remember my grandmother telling me stories about how her mother and father came to Ellis Island from Sicily or how my fathers family came from Germany to make a better life here in America. Not all immigrants agreed with their countries wars, conflicts and some just wanted to get away from tyranny. While you had Ellis Island to the east in NYC on the west you had Angel Island. Which met the people who came to America thru the golden gate were not greeted by the Statue Of Liberty but rather with the wood buildings of Angel Island which reminded immigrants that this was more like a prison then a place where you could experience freedom.

Immigrants came from everywhere New Zealand, Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, Australia, Russia and many Asians from countries residing across the other side of the pacific ocean. While many Europeans came to Ellis Island many of the immigrants that came to Angel Island came here from many Pacific Oceanic Countries like China, Japan, Vietnam, Cambodia, Korea and even the Philippines. Many immigrants came to Angel Island between 1910 and 1940 some of the earlier ones went on to become miners and develop many of the towns across the west that still bustle even today. As a matter in fact millions immigrated to American in pursuit of a better more democratic free way of life. In China disease ran rampant and the economy was not doing so great. Their were quite a few natural disasters and Asians wanted to come to America to make better lives for themselves despite how hard the journey was to cross the Pacific Ocean. Most of the immigrants in fact were so poor that it was the families relatives who often paid for them to have a ticket at a chance at a better life. While Ellis Island was warmer and friendly Angel Island was a bit more brash as passengers were separated based on nationality. If you were a European or you had first class tickets your papers could be processed on board the ship and you could disembark. But anybody besides first or second class passengers were often quarantined immediately after getting off the boat and some were even ferried to Angel Island for processing.

People were often treated more like objects and less then human as a matter in fact both local and state politicians began to target the Chinese. So it was congress which supported the first series of acts and laws targeting anyone from Asia. The first act was the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882 where America for the first time had limited immigration on the basis of Nationality or race for a very first time. Later more acts were passed as more Asians came thru the golden gate to replace many of the Chinese Immigrant workers who came prior to the immigrant station. Many of the Chinese that came to American were miners and millers. Honestly, milling and mining was about the only work available if you were Chinese. Sadly even throughout the west the Chinese were treated more poorly then other ethnic backgrounds. I am not sure the Chinese knew exactly what it was they were up against till it was to late because more then often they were not treated fairly some were neglected and they were also segregated. This is just another dark part of America's historical past and while I wish I could be patriotic like many of you the past haunts me so it should also haunt anyone with a good conscious who really sees all men and women as equal.

The location of the Immigration Station held relevancy as not only was it isolated but it was easy to control the migrants here all while enforcing new immigration laws and containing outbreaks of disease.  In fact sometimes when the Chinese arrived here they would call the place China Cove. At Ellis island about one to three percent of all arriving immigrants were rejected while at Angel Island that number stood around 18 percent. While the Chinese Exclusion Act Of 1882 only allowed entrance to merchants, diplomats, teachers, students, merchants and skilled laborers all immigration staff on the island was very suspicious of anyone arriving. The Chinese were always seen as a threat because they would work low wage jobs and when the economy collapsed in 1870's there were unemployment problems which led to further discrimination labeling them as unsuitable only because the Chinese worked for much less and folks felt like they were coming here stealing jobs. Despite the discrimination the Asians continued to arrive from 84 countries they were the largest ethnic group to enter San Francisco till about 1915 when the Japanese immigrants outnumbered the Chinese for the first time. The detention center was opened in 1910 because of the Chinese and eventually immigrants once they were deemed to be disease free were processed so they could be productive citizens in America as they left the island and stepped foot at the wharf of San Francisco for a very first time.

The Angel Island Immigration station had electricity, lighting and even working water. It also had dormitories, dining rooms, staff homes and administration buildings. It was such a large facility that at the time it could handle up to 2,500 immigrants per day and sleeping accommodations for up to 1000 people. When you docked onto the island the first stop was the admin building where women, children and men were all separated. They would be sent to the medical building where they would endure a medical exam. I read that the Chinese often had to undress in front of strangers and were probed, poked and prodded. They would be tested for various diseases and parasitic infections and if they failed such an exam they would deport them immediately or hospitalize the migrants at their own expense. If you were deemed to have a serious virus, disease or illness you were quarantined to prevent such a disease ever spreading. After you were examined and deemed healthy you were assigned a detention dormitory room and a bunk where you awaited interrogation. You can still see writing on the walls in one of the dormitories where migrates expressed fears and worries by leaving messages on the barrack walls.

The interrogation process varied in time thus that would depend on how long you were detained. While it may have only taken a few days for some others spent months detained on Angel Island. Supposedly one migrant spent 22 months here and others were almost detained just as long. Most of the time the problem was is that many of the immigrants had false paperwork. Many of the Chinese immigrants who were mainly men claimed to be the sons of Chinese individuals who were already American Citizens. Back in the day if you were a child of a U.S. Citizen no matter where you are from you cant be denied entry as long as you can prove citizenship. Thus, many Chinese lied the nickname they called such liars is paper sons and daughters even though it stated on paper one thing there really was never no real family connection. Many Americans would lie just to help there fellow Chinese enter the country because the government had given them a monetary incentive so they would make claim that migrants they did not know were family members crazy huh? The system was faulty but many immigrants from other countries cared about only one thing and that is to prosper in America. America was built off its diversity even my family came from Poland, Germany and Italy. They came to America because they had something to offer some of my family even served in the military. We are the America we are today because of the migrants who dared to dream!

Also there was the Detention and Discharge Camps between 1898 - 1905 on Angel Island during the Spanish - American War and Philippine Insurrection. Soldiers came to the island for post processing on their way to and from overseas duty. The Detention Camp was first established on the east side of the island not far from the Quarry or even today's Immigration Station remnants. This detention camp built on site was built to house returning troops in 1899 who had been stricken with, exposed too or were carrying any contagious diseases. The first Army unit to occupy this small camp was the 31st Volunteer Infantry which were infected with Smallpox. War had more cost then just death with it came disabled soldiers who had nowhere to go because they could not work while others simply had gotten a disease overseas. If soldiers could bring back smallpox imagine what the migrants were bringing back from many of the countries they lived in for so many years then deciding to come to America. I love Angel Island because it holds rich, cultural and even natural beauty which is iconic to America. The islands military history dates back to the Civil War and by 1900 the Army designated the entire island as Fort McDowell divided into Garrisons.

The detention camp at the North Garrison did not last very long as of 1901 they moved it to the Point Simpson and instead they focused on a discharge camp for soldiers. For awhile most of the soldiers returning were discharged from the Philippines. The soldiers had all sorts of services they could utilized such as buying tickets at the railroad office or utilizing the Wells Fargo Express Company Office. When men were stationed for discharging they were processed to be separated from the Army while given a final pay and pretty much boated off the island once discharge paperwork was fully complete. As a matter in fact the first eight or nine months nearly 12 thousand soldiers were processed so when 1905 came around and 87 thousand men had passed through the camp or temporary stayed on Angel Island at one time or another it ended up bringing a bunch of federal funding, grants and expanding the entire islands base of operations a little more.


With the U.S. Army presence on the island increasing significantly in 1899 Fort McDowell really begin as a quarantine station on the east end of the island. The more troops that had been exposed to disease the more military use Angel Island was seeing significant use especially in 1905 when Fort McDowell grew into a Discharge Depot which 87,000 passed through here on their way to overseas to many Pacific Ocean countries overseas. When the entire island was designated as Fort McDowell its headquarters were based on the east end of the island often called East Garrison. Camp Reynolds thus became the West Garrison while the Immigration Station was the North Garrison. The North Garrison expanded in 1942 during WWII which boasted an infirmary, 1600 person mess hall, several barracks, guard house and post exchange. While today many buildings still stand which was the immigration station and detention center many of the Army's military structures were demolished in 1973 and you can still see ruins on the north side of the island and foundations. But if you were to go just about fifteen minutes on foot past the North Garrison the east garrison today holds many military style buildings which at the time served as a very large base and facility.

In 1910 and 1911 Fort McDowell expanded its buildings so that it could be a major recruitment and processing center for military personnel for overseas assignments. Their was barracks for 600 men, mess hall and a large 70 room hospital. For its first few years the new construction the army laid out was the worlds largest and most elaborate military induction center.  It was a really fantastic military base men could bowl, play basketball or baseball. Some of the soldiers did some fishing also cant say I blame them but that few years of peace and good times would certainly come to an end. In 1917 just after the U.S. Declared war on Germany Fort McDowell seen heavy usage and once again the North Garrison used some of its buildings to be used as a prisoner of war facility. This would be for enemy aliens who may have been German who were arrested on board ships in the harbors along the coast line. Once they were detained for a short time they would later transfer them to a more permanent detention center such as in North Carolina.

In 1918 during WWI the island was used for debarkation and a discharge point for troops returning from the war. After the war through the 1920's and 1930's despite how busy Fort McDowell was it inducted, discharged and handled the transfer of over 40 thousand military personnel per year. This was more then any other U.S. Military outpost during this time period. You may have wondered as to why Fort McDowell was such a huge facility? This was due to the fact from about 1900 to 1941 the only U.S. military bases outside the continental United States were all in the Pacific such as in Hawaii, Philippines, Panama Canal etc. thus Fort McDowell was the nation's only military overseas processing center. Living at this fort was unique kind of like being a world away from a world. You had many ethnic cultures mostly young men that came from everywhere to be recruited to fight the good fight and defeat Germany's take over of the world. While most soldiers thought we seen the last of Germany we truly did not as German and Japanese subs skirted the shoreline below one of the countries busiest ports of San Francisco.

With the outbreak of WWII and the bombing of Pearl Harbor December 7th 1941 the abandoned Immigration Station was turned into a prisoner of War Processing facility. Before the second world war there were prisons at the north Garrison. But the Immigration Station was much larger facility that was equipped with dealing with prisoners since they already had guard towers, fences and tight security.  Hundreds if not thousands of Japanese and German prisoners were temporarily detained here. While the NE side of the island could detain prisoners many troops could embark across the Pacific to go to war with Japan. In WWII when troops begin to return home a 60' sign that was illuminated said "Welcome Home, Well Done" on the southern slope of Mount Livermore which is found at the center of the island. Men kept pouring on in all the way up until July of 1946 where eventually the Army decided to close down Fort McDowell and declare the entire island as surplus property.

Some of you may wonder how Fort McDowell had gotten its name but it was named after General Irvin McDowell who had served in the Mexican War and led the Union Army at the first battle of Bull Run in the Civil War and had been the commanding officer of the Dept. of the Pacific with headquarters at the Presidio. The Army wanted to honor this war hero so they just decided you know what lets just call the entire island McDowell but really prior and even after the military presences Angel Island has always been called Angel Island since the Spanish had arrived here. When you go through our photos of Fort McDowell it is important to keep in mind that in 1909 the Army used prisoners from the military prison ward from Alcatraz since both of them are relatively close to one another. The buildings found on site were truly engineering marvels which included a mess all that could seat about 1400 men, 70 room hospital, 600-man barracks later expanded to a 1,600-man barracks, officers quarters, guard house, administration building, school, recreational facilities, church, living quarters for higher ranking officers and there families. Many of the officers would grow flower gardens as cypresses grew along the road.

What a great way to retire from war at a place like this can you imagine getting to stay on this island for a month or two. Most soldiers seen this as a vacation before they had to enter the real world and try to integrate into society. But when WWII begin it was in fact the opposite you had a huge military presence in San Francisco all working with one another such as Fort Mason, the Oakland Army Terminal, Fort Miley and Camp Stoneman. While Angel Islands Fort McDowell sat right in the epicenter of it all which was a busy time for our military in this region. I mean you can imagine that 300,000 soldiers shipped to the Pacific Theater of Operations at Fort McDowell could raise a little awareness. The bay, port and island were rather congested because of the strong military presence in the bay the first half of the 20th century. The busiest month in the post;s history was in 1945 after the war when nearly 24k men returned to be processed. In fact that same month all those men came home the Main Mess Hall served over 310 thousand meals including 3.5 tons of turkey for a Christmas dinner record.

When the San Francisco Port of Embarkation reorganized after the war they felt that Fort McDowell was no longer needed thus the U.S. flag was lowered for the last time at this very post on August 28th 1946. Since then many buildings either been demolished, sealed off to the public or are being used by state park employees. Honestly, I am thankful how well everything is preserved due to the state of California's hard work in maintaining the islands historically significant sites. I explored the entire lower floor of the hospital and its completely open for urban explorers who are into exploring abandoned decaying buildings which is pretty awesome but Ferry Service is limited and in my opinion there just is never enough time to see everything on the entire island in just a few hours which is why ill be docking here a second time in the future to explore more locations. Honestly, I believe as a paranormal investigator this is the MOST haunted island in the world and yes there are ghost that haunt Angel Island. I only had to pull out my EVP recorder a few times to pick up voices of the dearly departed and well where there is history there is also GHOSTS!

Talking a little more in depth about Fort McDowell when troops first arrived here they were issued immediately uniforms and equipment from the Quartermaster Department operating under the Director Of Supply. Their was also a engineers office which was always working hard to expand the base and design more buildings. Their was vehicles on the island such as jeeps and even cars more then often you would see a vehicle being serviced as the Army's motor pool. The chapel was not built till 1942 in the middle of WWII but was ministering all faiths including Catholic, Jewish, Protestant, Christian Science and Episcopalian religions. This base also was rumored to have some of the best food in the Army and they better have being 12 thousand meals a day were served here. If you were a soldier you could enjoy a movie, dance, stage entertainment or even basketball in the mess hall.

The soldiers were given outlets during there stay on the island while some came home from war with severe injuries sometimes illness others were getting ready to be shipped off and would never again step foot in America because they were killed in combat. The base also had a Post Exchange or known as  PX which was built in 1910. Soldiers could purchase toiletries, clothing and other extra supplies here. The PX also offered a general store, gymnasium, soda fountain, restaurant, tap room yes with beer on top and even a barbershop. In WWI they used the PX as a bowling alley and gymnasium so that some of the soldiers could blow off a little steam. The Army treated its men with dignity at Fort McDowell giving the soldiers a good home cooked meal and some outlets before and after the war.  The Admin building which still stands today was the clerical headquarters if you were a soldier you could pick up personnel paperwork here perhaps get it processed and also check your mail or even mail a letter to your family. Lets just say the island offered those in the Army with a little something extra so it was a given so many men wanted to be stationed here.

Today most of the buildings on Angel Island remain abandoned, forgotten and perhaps in the state of decay. When I walked around the island I felt a bit sad perhaps because I could sympathize and imagine what life must had been like for some who came to the island seeking freedom and ended up instead losing it. While so many great moments in history were achieved here it also was a place that had a dark side. More then likely some staff raped female immigrants who spoke very little English and abuse probably took place because some people had hatred for other cultural backgrounds. Some soldiers came back from war on their death beds with illness, disease and even wounds which took place during war especially WWII when so many good American soldiers lost their lives to Germany's and Japans reign of terror. Nature has kind of consumed the island similar to back when the Miwok Natives lived on the island. You will find that their are deer on the island which swam here from Tiburon others were brought here by the soldiers of Fort McDowell to hunt in their spare time. 
Besides deer, there are raccoons, deer, voles, garter snakes, gopher snakes, racers and rubber boas, blue bellied lizards, butterflies, and a variety of birds. There are no rattlesnakes, squirrels, rabbits, possums, skunks, bears, mountain lions, bobcats or coyotes. The Angel Island Mole is endemic to the island and lives nowhere else in the world! It is a sub-species of the broad-foot mole. Besides the abundant nature in between it all are remnants filled with culture, history, tragedy, love and loss.


 Many of the young soldiers shipped off to war simply never came back home and they certainly may have been recruited here but they never made it to pick up there discharge papers. Immigrants came to the island and were quarantined some simply died of illness before they ever had a chance to really set foot on our home soil. If you want to roll back time a little bit the Miwoks had a village on this island at least five hundred years ago more then likely they have also buried there tribal members in one of the islands burial mounds. The list goes on and on and on Angel Island has experienced death many times and where their is death their is also the dearly departed whom today probably wander the halls of these decaying buildings, creepy barracks, homes and detention cells. There is no island like Angel Island making this one of the most unique sites in the world believe me. When you decide to watch our videos or view our photos keep in mind that your looking into a piece of Americas past some of us are here today because of the existence of the Ellis Island of the west!


Copyright By
Lord Rick aka AngelOfThyNight
Founder
Producer, Talk Show Host, Author, Paranormal Investigator and Urban Explorer




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